In the forests of Mie Prefecture, reachable in under two hours from Nagoya, stands the most sacred site in the Shinto religion: Ise Jingu, often called Ise Grand Shrine. It is less a single shrine than a vast complex of over a hundred, centred on two main sanctuaries dedicated to the sun deity Amaterasu and the deity of agriculture and industry.
The shrine that is always new
Ise's most extraordinary feature is invisible to most visitors: every twenty years, the main sanctuaries are completely rebuilt on an adjacent plot, using new timber and following techniques passed down for over a millennium. The old structures are then dismantled. This ritual renewal — most recently completed in 2013 — embodies a Shinto idea of purity through renewal rather than permanence through preservation.
Naiku and Geku
The complex has two centres. The Geku (outer shrine) and Naiku (inner shrine) sit some six kilometres apart, traditionally visited in that order. Both are approached through serene forest paths crossing the Isuzu River, where pilgrims still purify their hands and mouths at the water's edge before proceeding.
Okage Yokocho: the pilgrim town
At the approach to the inner shrine lies Okage Yokocho, a recreated Edo-period townscape of wooden shops selling local specialities — most famously Akafuku, a soft mochi topped with sweet red-bean paste that pilgrims have eaten here for centuries. It is touristy but genuinely charming, and a natural place to rest after the shrine walk.
Making the trip
Limited express trains run directly from Nagoya to Ise. A visit to both shrines plus the pilgrim town fills a full, unhurried day. Arrive early: the inner shrine at dawn, mist rising off the river through the cedars, is a memory that outlasts almost any other in central Japan.
Continue exploring the region's traditions with our onsen guide.