In the mountains where Gifu meets Nagano, a short stretch of Japan's old Nakasendo highway survives in remarkable condition. The walk between the post towns of Magome and Tsumago is one of the country's most accessible historical hikes — around eight kilometres of forest path, stone steps, and preserved wooden streetscapes.
The old highway
The Nakasendo was one of two main routes connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period, running through the mountainous interior. Post towns grew up along it to feed and shelter travellers. Most have modernised beyond recognition, but Magome and Tsumago were preserved by local movements that banned visible power lines and modern signage.
The walk itself
Most walkers start in Magome, the higher of the two, and descend toward Tsumago — a gentler gradient. The path climbs first to the Magome Pass, then drops through cedar forest past waterfalls and a tea house where a volunteer keeps a kettle warm for passing hikers. It is well-signed and manageable for anyone with reasonable fitness.
The post towns
Tsumago is the more completely preserved of the two — a single curving street of dark wooden buildings, latticed windows, and hanging shop noodle-shop curtains, with cars banned during daytime hours. Staying overnight in a family-run minshuku inn, after the day-trippers leave, is the way to experience it at its quietest.
Getting there
The valley is reachable from Nagoya via the JR Chuo line to Nakatsugawa or Nagiso, then a short local bus. It makes a long but rewarding day trip, or a relaxed overnight paired with the onsen towns deeper in the Kiso Valley.
Continue north with our guide to your first onsen visit.